Letters From the Front

Montgomery Walker


Description of Egypt and Palestine

Huntingdon Gleaner


Dated: August 30, 1918

Palestine, August 30, 1918

My dear Mother:

Your's and Millicent's letters of July 1 and 8th I received a few days ago, and being as all your letters are interesting, needless to say I was delighted to receive them. To hear from home is the only thing a soldier has to look forward to, more particularly on this trip than those serving on the Palestine front. Constantly are we among soldiers and to some extent the life becomes very monotonous. Even if one is on leave, or for any other reason, down the line there is nothing better to mingle with than the Syppo's Arabs and other tribes that make up the western population of Egypt. Those in the Army who had any decency, draw the line at mingling or associating with that class. In the early stages of the war, when a soldier was in Cairo, Alexandria, or Port Said he was accepted into the homes of Europeans and accordingly well treated, but the hospitality of these kind people was abused by apparently the unappreciative low caste who have lost, or rather never had the least strain of honor, or respectability, consequently there is no social life for a soldier. On the Western front the life is entirely different, when the boys are not actually in the line, support, or reserves, invariably they are billeted, and when on leave they can have a complete change of life. Another thing that might be greatly contrasted between the two countries is the countries themselves. Apart from the fields of activity, or the destruction must be great, France must be a very beautiful country, a wonderful variety of scenery. Quite unlike our Egypt and Palestine. The former, over which our operations were, nothing met the eye but glaring sand, while the latter, although the physical features are different, is far from being attractive. Only in the spring, when the hillsides are covered with wildflowers, does one enjoy any beauties of the land. There are the romantic and historic places the command a wonderful amount of interest, but the country generally seems flat and commonplace. These conditions are due to no other reason than the late Turkish administration of land, which is one of the worst systems that could be adopted. Merri or government land is that for which the occupier pays one eighth of his crop in tithes. Sometimes the occupant is shown in government books as being the holder of Merri land, but the extent of location is seldom registered. In principle the land can be seized by the government at any time. In practice he is allowed to occupy the land, and even hand it down by heritage. The tithes receipt is accepted as sufficient evidence of ownership, but the land is subject to forfeiture if the tithes are not paid on it for three years. In addition to tithes, the occupants of land pay a land tax, which runs from a half percent, to one percent. Under such administration there was no encouragement for those holding land to make any improvements. The government destroyed trees ruthlessly, or else were cut down by landholders for firewood, or to escape taxation. Young trees planted were heavily taxed, consequently, over a large area of Palestine I have covered, I is seen but very few trees, and those chiefly were fruit bearing. It will be only a few years, under the new British rule, when the condition of things will have wonderfully improved. Already signs of prosperity are shown on every hand, a state of affairs which was unknown under Turkish rule. This was noticed more particularly in Jerusalem, but in all parts of the country the people, after living so many years under the strain of the Turks, are enjoying the freedom and happiness that is brought to all under British rule. We have all read of the treatment Christians have received at the hands of Turks. I happen to have in my possession a picture of more positive proof of their doings that any literature can give. The picture is of five Armenians hanging by the neck from poles erected for no other purpose. Surrounding them are a number of Turkish soldiers. The picture was taken at the gates of Jaffa, about two weeks before it was captured by us last autumn. At the fall of Jericho in the early part of the year, among the prisoners taken was the photographer who took the picture just described. The plate was found among other things in his kit. An instance of the relief given to these poor unfortunate beings, by the British, was brought much to our notice last spring when we made the raids over the hills of Moab, on Esgalt and Amman. When we returned, leaving the country again in the hands of the Turks, no less than 2 thousand refugees followed us back. Again we are in the Jordan valley, after a short spell up on the hills. As the summer grows older the serenity of the valley grows less. When this ground was won in the spring, friendly natives insisted that it would be impossible for the troops to remain on the low ground for the summer. Every man, they said, would go down with malaria or other fevers. Arabs themselves, we are told, always evacuated in the hot months. The outlook was unpromising, but the Jordan bridgeheads had to be retained, and this required the presence of many troops. All possible measures to prevent the feared sickness were at once taken. Drinking from the streams (there are several running from the hills to the Jordan), was forbidden and all water for the troops chlorinated. Then war was waged against the mosquito, by burning all scrub along the Jordan and roadways, and filling in small pools beside the course of streams. For many miles the currents were contained between small stone walls, and it was made a crime to cross horses except at approved marks. The scheme was to have no other but moving water and so prevent the malaria carrying mosquito from breeding. These precautions achieved a great success. In time large numbers of us, in the spring and early summer, were forced to evacuate for a time, but despite the shortage of man we have been able to hold the line. The heat, although very intense, is not altogether unbearable. Hours at a time the thermometer stands at 120 degrees, and has gone as high as 130 degrees, but to me the greatest discomfort is the dust. For six months there has not been a drop of rain, and during that period tracks along the valley have been traversed daily by thousands of troops. This constant tramping has ground the very light clay, almost white, to a depth knee deep on horses. When on a move in a column of route the dust has been so dense that one could barely see section of horses directly in front of his own. It is almost preferable to be in the frontline, despite the shelling, active sniping and frequent attacks. Referring back to running streams, these are known to us as wet wadies. The wady Kelt, one greatly depended upon us for water, runs from the hills just behind Jericho, and was known in Biblical times as brook Cherith. Apparently I am not entirely free from malaria. I had a return of it a few days ago and felt rather miserable for a couple of days as soon as I felt the first symptoms I began taking the only preventative and cure quinine. While, mother, I have written a great deal more than I at first felt inclined, but must stop now, hoping you are well, with much love,

I am, your affectionate son,

Montgomery



Transcribed by: marc